Out to Sea column
for May 17/14
(c) By Jim and Barb Fox
See Canada from the
sea just as the explorers did and discover some of the country’s vast but relatively
untouched wilderness.
Maple Leaf Adventures,
a “boutique” expedition cruise company, explores Haida Gwaii (Islands of the
People), formerly known as the Queen Charlotte Islands.
A humpback whale makes an appearance in Juan Perez Sound, Gwaii Haanas, near the schooner Maple Leaf. (Kevin J. Smith/Maple Leaf Adventures) |
Adventurers can visit
the new Gwaii Haanas Legacy Pole in this remote archipelago of islands along
the continental shelf about 115 kilometres off the northern British Columbia
coast.
For the first time
in 130 years, a new 12.8-metre (42-foot) carved monumental pole was raised last
August at Windy Bay.
It commemorates 20
years of co-operative management of Gwaii Haanas, the 138 islands that were
protected by an agreement in 1993 between the government of Canada and the
Haida people.
Maple Leaf guests discover Haida traditions at the UNESCO World Heritage Site SGang Gwaay, formerly known as the village of Ninstints. (Kevin J. Smith/Maple Leaf Adventures) |
For sightseers and
adventurers, the area is “renowned for its Haida village sites, cathedral-like
ancient rainforests, abundance of whales and seabirds, and its spectacular
geography of mountains, islands and sea,” said Maureen Gordon of Maple Leaf
Adventures.
The Haida people, who have lived there so long that ancient, flooded settlements are being discovered under the sea, developed a monumental art and building style.
Cruisers step aboard
a classic coastal schooner for these nine-day expeditions, making calls to remote
beaches, the rainforest and Haida village sites, including SGang Gwaay, a
UNESCO World Heritage Site.
“Maple Leaf’s
expert local crew and naturalist make the world come alive and Haida interpreters
teach guests about the culture, poles and villages,” Gordon said.
“Gourmet food,
sailing a classic tall ship and camaraderie between guests and crew are other
highlights,” she added.
The new Gwaii Haanas Legacy Pole being carved in 2013. (Parks Canada, J. Shafto) |
Gwaii Haanas has become
a “beacon for culturally respectful ecotourism,” with Maple Leaf trips rated
one of Canada’s “Signature Experiences” by the Canadian Tourism Commission.
The cruise company
based in Victoria has been offering small-ship voyages on “restored, classic
sailing ships” featuring the natural and cultural history of Alaska and
Canada's west coast since 1986.
Haida Gwaii
sailings were available from May 30-June 7; June 1-9; and June 18-26. With “sufficient
demand,” other dates – June 8-16 and possibly May 24-June 1 – could be added.
The nine-day,
eight-night cruise costs $4,850 and includes ship accommodations and one night
in a lodge, all meals and snacks, beverages including wine and beer, cruising,
guiding, shore excursions and the use of gear including kayaks.
Plying
the eastern waters
Cruise passengers in eastern Canada can explore a Quebec fjord that’s unlike any other place in North America.
Cruise passengers in eastern Canada can explore a Quebec fjord that’s unlike any other place in North America.
On a Canada-New
England cruise last fall on Holland America’s Eurodam, we were taken on an
“expedition-style” diversion off the St. Lawrence River and into the Saguenay
Fjord.
Sunset on the Saguenay Fjord as seen from the aft of the Eurodam cruise ship. (Barbara Fox photo) |
With its rugged and remote scenery, the Saguenay River feeds into the
St. Lawrence with its tides, salt water and some 54 species of fish and marine
mammals, including Atlantic salmon, Greenland sharks and beluga whales. On
land, critters include black bears and moose.
Cruise ships are
able to travel along the fjord and dock at Saguenay, a municipality formed in
2002 by amalgamating Chicoutimi, Jonquire, La Baie, Laterrire and surrounding
municipalities and townships.
From there, passengers
can book “shore excursions” to discover the Saguenay
National Park that comprises most of the fjord’s shoreline and
the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park that encompasses and protects the
waters.
Activities include sea kayaking, fishing and hiking available at both parks.
The Eurodam cruise ship making a port call at Saguenay, Quebec. (Jim Fox photo) |
Land tours are also offered to such places as L’Anse-Saint-Jean and
Sainte-Rose-du-Nord, part of the “Most Beautful Villages of Quebec”; Baie Sainte-Marguerite
to look for belugas; Site de la Nouvelle France, a recreated Huron village; and
La Nouvelle Fabuleuse to relive the history of the region.
Also recommended is a stop at the Musee du fjord to “demystify the
ecosystem formed by the fjord” and the Baie des Ha! Ha!
Need to know
For more
information: MapleLeafAdventures.com;
1-888-599-5323; and Holland America Line: hollandamerica.com; 1-877-932-4259
A great resource to
learn about cruise destinations is the Cruise Lines International Association
website: cruising.org
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Jim and Barb Fox can be reached at outtosea50@hotmail.com
For more Out to Sea trip tips: http://outtoseatravel.blogspot.ca
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