Out to Sea for May
25/19
By Jim and Barb Fox
At the first glance
of a map, you wonder how a huge cruise ship can navigate the many twists and
turns on this small rivulet of water.
The journey along
what is Canada’s only navigable fjord in Quebec rewards passengers with breath-taking
scenery that includes craggy mountains and peaks with high plateaus carved centuries
ago by glaciers.
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| The sun goes down on the Saguenay Fjord, called one of the prettiest places in the world. (Jim Fox photo) |
On select St.
Lawrence voyages, ships go slowly on the Saguenay Fjord, creating mere wavelets
en route to some of the most picturesque villages in “La belle province.”
When we sailed on
Holland America’s Eurodam, a crowd was waiting on the wharf at Saguenay on the
Baie des Ha! Ha!
They greeted us –
mostly American tourists with a good sprinkling of Canadians – in their best
English and us with our worst French.
It turned out
Eurodam was making the 200th visit by a cruise ship to the port and we learned
the city, 190 kilometres north of Quebec City is known for its warm welcome.
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| Holland America’s Eurodam pays a visit to Saguenay, Quebec with writer Jim Fox. (Barbara Fox photo) |
The quiet port
village comes to life during ship visits including Place
du Marche, on Rue Fabrique facing Saint-Alphonse Church, with
artisans and food and drink.
Michelin thumbs up
The fjord is
classified among the greatest must-see attractions in the world by the Michelin
Guide and is an all-season playground for Quebecers.
The 105-kilometre
eco-system flowing into the St. Lawrence River draws pods of visiting whales, Greenland
sharks, seals, seabirds and people kayaking, power boating, whale watching and
hiking.
Along with villages
considered to be among Quebec’s most charming, surrounding gems are national
parks with lots of flora and fauna and not overrun by visitors.
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| The picturesque Saguenay port village is carved into the glacial rocks. (Jim Fox photo) |
Among them are Saguenay
Fjord National Park and the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park.
Holland America
shore excursion literature calls Saguenay “neat-as-a-pin” with a population of
145,000.
The role of the
region in Quebecois history is celebrated in the villages, at La Fabuleuse cultural
show and the Chicoutimi Pulp Mill museum that honours local artist Arthur
Villeneuve.
The Saguenay River,
a tributary of the St. Lawrence, was discovered by French explorer Jacques
Cartier in the mid-1530s.
Steeped in history,
it was once a trading route for the First Nations people and in the 1600s,
France established a fur trading post there.
Tourism officials
suggest visitors will be “overwhelmed by our gastronomy that features local
flavours, the terraces and cafes, lively bars, boutiques and exclusive shops.”
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| Saguenay Fjord National Park teems with flora, fauna. (Barbara Fox) |
Shoppers can get
their kicks on La Route des Artisans (Craftsmen Road), home to 90 local
artisans.
The region is also known
for wine and craft beer produced with “considerable devotion and passion.”
Jonquiere Domaine Le Cageot Vineyard is
where wines, tea and pastry are made with locally grown blueberries.
La Voie Maltee is a
microbrewery where visitors can have beer paired with local foods.
If you cruise
Numerous major
cruise lines include the Saguenay Fjord on select sailings between Montreal and
Quebec City to New York City and Boston voyages and the reverse.
Eight vessels will
dock there for the first time this season while the Queen Mary 2 visits on
Sept. 10 and Oct. 13.
Holland America’s
Zuiderdam calls now through the summer and fall colour seasons with 12-day
Quebec City-Boston sailings.
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Jim and Barb Fox can be reached at outtosea50@hotmail.com
For more Out to Sea trip tips: http://outtoseatravel.blogspot.ca
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